Lá Fhéile Pádraig Sona Duit!

Saint Patrick's Day is of course well underway in Ireland, and is there any better way to celebrate it than with a parade? Well... actually, yeah, I suppose there is, but a parade is a pretty good way to kick off the celebration of a British man taken to Ireland as a slave, told by God to flee, then, after successfully returning home, encouraged by God to return so that he might save the Irish. And why drink on this 17th day of March? Because it used to (and still does) serve as a one day break from Lent. And what did many of the Irish give up for this forty day stretch of fasting? You got it. So the drinking actually has a purpose, folks! So that's what I did this afternoon... the parade, not the drinking... My impressions of the parade? Worth attending, but a little sporadically thrown together. And for whatever reason this year's theme (there are themes to St. Patty's Day parades other than Irishness and St. Patrick?) was Over the Moon. A little beyond me, I have to admit. And although Galway was densely packed it wasn't as... wild, maybe?... as I was expecting. I actually don't know what I was expecting, maybe just that it would have been more elaborate. Also there were plenty of people not wearing green. But all that aside I'd still much rather go to a parade than class on occasion, and I can proudly say I've been in Ireland on Saint Partick's Day.

A few fun tidbits:
-The Irish do NOT pinch or punch anyone who doesn't wear green today. Nor have they ever heard of that tradition.
-The shortest parade in celebration of this day takes place in a village in County Cork where they travel 100 yards between the two pubs there.

I was almost certain that this was the horse taken by the travelers until I remembered that horse had two other stockings. Maybe they just painted them black so they could use him in the parade...

Pancake Tuesday!

Have you wondered why you hunt for eggs at Easter? Actually... I haven't either. But I now have the answer! And it's all thanks to the wonderful little country of Ireland (or so I'm told). Back in the day it was very common for the Irish to give up eggs for Lent, so they would spend all day before Ash Wednesday making things that had eggs in the recipe to use them all up. Pancakes eventually became the food of choice to whip up, so for those of you who have heard of Pancake Tuesday but didn't know where it originated from (Nick), now you do. Then, on Easter, the Irish would go "hunting" for eggs to feast on. So there you have it! Now you'll never again wonder why you look for eggs of all things on Easter. So... does anyone know why the animal representing Easter is a bunny? (Seriously, I'm curious. I don't actually know the answer to that one yet...)

So I acknowledge that I haven not written in a few weeks. Hopefully no one has been kept awake at night wondering if I got brainwashed by the Irish folksongs and went native. Don't fret; I still have every intention of returning home in May. (quick aside: I've heard from a couple of sources that rumor has it I plan on sticking around here for an extra month, or the rest of summer - depending on the version you might have heard. I'll go ahead and dispel that; I still have every intention of coming home at the end of May, cross my heart!)

As to what shenanigans I have been up to in the past few weeks? If you are up to date with my adventures (really you have no reason not to be - everyone likes to procrastinate, not to mention you had plenty of time to catch up) then you will know that the next destination on the agenda was Bunratty Castle and Folk Park outside of Shannon. Noel and I met up to catch the 8:00am bus down which took about an hour. Once in the park we started out the morning with a cup of tea and delicious homemade scone at the Tea Room in the Folk Park. Since it was technically during the off-season we had the place mostly to ourselves; this made roaming around a bit easier as there were no crowds to fight. We spent the better part of two hours in the castle alone.

We toured a bit more of the Folk Park which was comprised of small cottages built in the fashion of homes from different areas of Ireland, then headed out of the park to get lunch. There was a restaurant called the Creamery Bar a little ways off with delicious clam chowder. Actually some of the best vegetable soup I've ever tried, too. Why are all the best restaurants out in the middle of nowhere? Well, Vernon excluded...

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the grounds of the Folk Park, a pretty extensive place with about twenty-three shops and homes we could go into. Actually it was mostly houses, then one area representing the main street of a village.

We got dinner and a pint at Durty Nelly's, a good little pub next to the castle, then headed home. Rating of this adventure: A- (since it was off-season the folks who usually work at the park representing various Irish livelihoods weren't there)


Other event worth mentioning: attended the Law Ball last Tuesday with Brad, a fellow from the states who was here last semester as well. Each department hosts a ball every year. I cannot speak to the rest of the balls but I have to imagine that they're all pretty similar. It was a nice affair starting with cocktails at the Galway Bay Hotel, dinner, then a band. I admit I was a bit disappointed that the band actually played mostly American music, but on the bright side I knew the majority of the songs. The shindig went well into the night/morning and there was an after party, well, after, but we ended up just heading back at that point.

(before I rendezvoused with Brad; this is one of the few pictures I have from the night. also, Beth is on my right, Meg on my left)

That's really all the craic (pronounced "crack" - can be used for anything from "good time" to "What's the craic?" which is essentially, "How are you?") here. Finally got out on a horse yesterday with the Equestrian Club. Just tryouts to place us for lessons (I think... they were very vague) but it was great to be back in the saddle (I know, curveball coming from me)! Headed out to Dublin Thursday after class to meet up with Brigid (buddy from Thacher). She's in Florence for the quarter and wanted to come to Ireland for a bit; she is a McCarthy after all! Needless to say I'm excited to see her after almost three years! Actually, I'm going to be out of town the next three weekends. Heading to Kilkenny the following weekend, then meeting up with Alex and Dub (also Thacher comrades spending the semester in Madrid and Florence, respectively) the first weekend in March. Anyway, that's all I have on the horizon at the moment.

Oh, and the horse? Still MIA...

An Encounter with Travelers

As I've mentioned there are two ways to get back to my flat from campus - the road through town passing by the St. Nicholas Cathedral and the shortcut through a field that approaches my apartment from the North. I decided to take the latter route Tuesday after lab as it would be dark ere I returned home. On a normal day I would pass five equine pals along the way; there's a nice little stretch of road with a house flanked on both sides by a field of horses. As I passed the first pasture I noticed the peculiar absence of one of the horses, a friendly black draft-cross, but didn't think much of it as there were one or two places feasibly out of sight of the road. It also struck me as slightly odd that one of the ponies was watching the bushes that formed the boundary to the yard, but as my mind was wandering elsewhere I just filed it away on the off chance it would come up again. Well... it did about twenty seconds later as I passed the driveway to the house. I noticed a bit of movement out of the corner of my eye and lo! There, in the flesh, was the missing horse. He was a bit skittish and the man in the house had come out to try and catch him, and there were two other onlookers. I managed to at least coax the horse up to the fence, but wasn't of much help myself since I didn't have anything to use as a makeshift halter. But we needn't have waited long as a van pulled up and three fellows hopped out. In minutes the two younger ones hopped the fence, cornered the horse, led him out of the yard by the hair under his chin, put a bit in his mouth, fashioned a headstall out of a bit of twine lying on the ground, clipped a dog leash to the bit, and one of the lads hopped up and rode off down the middle of the road away from the mount's home field, the van in hot pursuit.

I related this little chain of events to someone back home who suggested I had just witnessed horse thievery at its most spontaneous. I enjoyed his imaginative take on the scene but wrote it off as an actual possibility; surely there would be no one (or no group) so audacious as to commandeer a horse in broad daylight with witnesses! Well, the fellow was nowhere to be found on Wednesday when I passed by that morning, and the same held true Thursday. The whole situation started to seem more suspicious, and the more I considered it the more irked I was that these guys didn't have a proper bridle when they arrived. Or a halter. Or anything that a horse owner might have... We had a Butler group dinner that night and I tossed the story out to our group representative who went on a tirade about "knackers*", essentially Irish gypsies; she confirmed the notion that I had probably watched these folks make off with someone else' horse. I phoned in to the Garda today to see if there were any reports of a missing gelding, but they said there hadn't yet been a call. They took down the events anyway and said they would contact me if anything came up, so I suppose I'll just wait and see if I get a call or the horse reappears in his paddock...

Seriously!! I just never believed that such an absurd thing still happened, much less that I would see it!


*I later learned that Knackers is a rather insulting term, so it is more PC to call these folks "travelers" or "tinkers"...

Mission: Menlough Castle

Last Sunday Bethany and I decided to trek out to explore the ruins of Menlough Castle. We had the following information to go on:
-It is north of our apartment.
-It is on the eastern bank of the River Corrib.
-It is approximately a two mile expedition.
-One must traverse through a field with potentially waist-high grasses.
That's all of the information I needed. We set out in high spirits.

(skip ahead about thirty minutes of accurate navigation...)

We crested a hill and dead ahead was this:

The road bent away to the right, but it seemed to me much more likely that this old gate might lead us to the ivy-draped walls we sought. After a bit of discussion we trooped under the arch and up the road that quickly transitioned to a dirt path. We shortly came to place where the pastures on either side gave way to a forested area that had an esoteric, mythical charm to it (trust me, the photo just doesn't do it justice).

A bit further up the road we caught our first glimpse of Menlough Castle. Hopped a few fences, pranced across a field or two, and stepped into the shadow of the towering walls. (Allow me to digress long enough to point out we actually arrived at the other side of Menlough, but this was a better view...)

We ventured inside to the collapsed halls and roamed around for a good while, plus I managed to find a few places to climb up to to gain a better perspective of the magnificence that once was. In summary, an absolutely fantastic setting for adventure and definitely a place to inspire the imagination, and although not a castle in the typical sense of kings and battles and the like it still brought back a few childhood memories (I seem to recall a phase in my er... very young days that I may have wanted to be a knight...).

This Saturday's adventure: Bunratty Castle in Shannon...

You've Spoken, I Must Respond Accordingly!

I've had quite a few requests to detail what courses I'm taking, so instead of waiting until I know for a fact what I'm registered for I'll indulge everyone with reports of academic fun!

Good news! I'm officially registered for a Microbiology course, Microbes in the Environment, and an Earth and Ocean Science course, Sediments in the Biosphere. Both seem to be pretty typical science courses: meet three times a week (though on a schedule... oh, er... timetable, right... that was probably figured out by throwing darts at a a blank page of days and times) and each have three hour labs once a week. I had to be approved for these courses before I arrived at NUI, Galway.

Bad news: I have no idea what English courses I'll be in. There are two types here, seminars and lectures. We're allowed to take as many lecture courses as we want, which are an hour each and meet twice a week. They also have up to three hundred students in them. We're supposed to be attending a few of those all of this week to see which one(s) we want to actually register next Monday. I've been told you can get into any of them; they don't really care if they have more students in the lecture hall. Ok, that should work out well enough. The English seminar on the other hand is a slightly different story. We're only permitted to take one because they limit it to fifteen students per course, and they only meet once a week for two hours. We register for that next Wednesday, so I suppose that means if I get the one I'd like I won't start until the week following that. That's a bit of an "if", though. There's also this little thing about registering for English seminars... Although the Irish students registered for all their courses last semester, they still have to wait and register for these seminars this coming week. Because the courses are so small and you have to physically sign up for which one you want, you're better of if you're further up in the queue. Ah, but the Irish are ambitious and academically driven! So they go out on Tuesday night (a common occurrence) and instead of getting a good night's sleep they head over and start queuing as soon as the pubs close. Since registration doesn't open until noon I'm pretty sure that means everyone just skips whatever classes they have that morning. I'm not too surprised; two of my flatmates didn't go in today because it was the first day of Irish weather - winds strong enough to give Texas a run for its money and rain alternating between spitting and pouring. Folks say you should get into one of your top... four... choices. But of course there are ten pages of options to accommodate everyone, so I'm confident I'll get into a course I would like to take.

Overall I have a pretty good timetable. I only have to be in by 9:00 on Mondays, I get the labs over with on Monday and Tuesday, and I only have one class on Fridays. The classes are all slotted for hour-intervals, but they start at ten after and the three I've attended so far ended at ten-til.

Toads: I met a girl trying to find our first class from California that knows Heather Back! (She's also now my lab partner for Microbes, which means at least one good lab partner for the semester; the other lab starts next week) In general everyone here is genuinely friendly. The guy I'm sitting next to in the EOS course is from Galway and a climber; he introduced me to a some of his friends and invited me out to watch a movie with them tomorrow. It's great - everyone seems to really want to incorporate us into their social lives so it hasn't been packs of Americans roaming around. Well, there have been those, but I've managed to steer clear. And my flatmates have invited me along anytime they go out to Eyre Square or just to go hang out with friends in the apartment over.

Actually, speaking of... heading over to Catherine's with them right now.

Cheers!

Historic Galway

I went on a University sponsored tour of Historic Galway yesterday. We had the neatest old chap, William, leading us about and telling endless stories about the history of the city and buildings and such. We ended the tour in the Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, then three of us asked him to get a cup of tea with us at The King's Head so we could hear more of his stories. Good day.

Today's pretty quiet; it's been snowing since morning. Classes start tomorrow as well. Our last roommate, Lorraine, got in last night, so we're having a dinner party tonight. Something tells me it won't be quite up to the standards of Becca and Michael creations, but I am looking forward to it. Though it means I need to venture out in the next hour or so to get ingredients.

Band from our night out in the City Centre of Dublin

Bewley's Hotel - Dublin

Lynch Memorial Wall (we're into Galway now)

Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas

Street near the City Centre of Galway

Mural on the side of Sally Longs - a somewhat "rougher" pub that tends to host hard rock bands

St. Nicholas' Cathedral (I walk across this bridge and around the right of the cathedral on the way to campus)

Looking back across the River Corrib towards the City Centre from the other side of the bridge

River Corrib

Shop Street - leading towards Eyre Square

Looking back towards the Dunnes Stores (the bright spot of light a little on the left) from near Menlo Park

Home Sweet Galway Home!

I have arrived at what is to be my home for the next five months and amidst the meetings and destination-less ramblings I am working on settling in. We were dropped off at Menlo Park, a pretty small gated complex with a pleasant inner court, Wednesday afternoon, split between the two apartment complexes we are living in. They're about a five minute walk from each other... roughly four if you cut through a (currently icy) field and hop a low rock wall. Almost everyone (myself not included) is rooming with someone else from IFSA-Butler and shares a flat with two-four other people from Butler, another program, or Ireland. We were told when the keys were distributed that the Irish students were still away on holiday and would be back likely over the weekend. Thus I figured I would be alone for a while. I was a bit shocked to instead hear music when I came through the door, but bounded upstairs delighted to meet my new roommate. Her name is Lydia. She's from New England, and here for the whole year. She goes to college in New York. I'm reserving judgment until I know more about her. It's a slow process; only four words max at a time. Oh, but Brian... she does watch Top Gear.

We were pretty much (...ok, completely) left to our own devices after getting our room assignments, so I unpacked a bit (not that I really had too much to unpack) then made a short walk to Dunnes Stores to get sheets. We were conveniently provided with a comforter and pillow. Dunnes Stores is a rather large chain that essentially has a a bunch of different departments, except each is segregated into its own little store. But you get everything from groceries to, well, bedding. Wandered further down Headford Rd which leads towards the City Centre and Eyre Square, the main social hub of Galway. That's about 20 minutes away, and NUI, Galway is about 25 minutes from Menlo.

The weather itself was not as bad as I was concerned it might be; there was some snow on the ground, though mostly just a lot of ice. It was somewhat overcast, and a little breeze blowing, but manageable, certainly. The night was relatively quiet. Wandered about some more (just near Dunnes, not near Eyre Square) with Jaime, got a bite to eat, and called it an early night; just read for a while.

Up early the next day for a lovely jaunt through the cold over to campus for the first time. If I wasn't awake before I left the apartment it only took one step outside to fix that! Another overcast day; such a change from Dublin. I had been getting my hopes up that it wasn't as dramatically cloudy over here as people made it out to be. We had a morning-full of orientation speeches from NUI Galway. Fun fact: there are over 500 international students here for the semester. After a few of us roamed campus until we found somewhere to eat, then made our way to the quadrangle (a main area of campus) with some help from my internal navigation system for a tour that was supposed to start at half-two. In typical Irish-fashion I'm beginning to find, the guides each arrived independently closer to quarter past three (someone from a nearby office assured us they were coming, I wasn't just waiting around optimistically). The tour was one of the more pointless things I'd done all day, but the lad was cheery and funny so it was fine. Not exactly like I had anywhere better to be.

(Bigger version here if you're really ambitious: http://astro.nuigalway.ie/images/NUIGalwayCampusMapLarge.jpg)

I branched off on the way back from campus to check out Eyre Square and do some investigating about a little American Football; I had been give a few leads on places to try. Eyre Square is a nifty little place. Other than Hotel Meyrick, a neat Victorian building right at the base of the square, most everything had a surprisingly modern look to it. The first place, Fagan's, was below the hotel, but they weren't picking up ESPN America due to some glitch. The bartender took my name down though and promised to call if she got it playing again. I was pleasantly surprised when I actually did get a call from her three hours later apologizing that they weren't able to get the channel up. I moved on to another place, was directed to Fox's, and from there to Kennedy's. Success! Not only did they pick up the proper channel, but they were going to be open late that night and the bartender said he'd be glad to put it on for me. I need to find out a bit more about this, but it seems that most pubs actually close around half twelve because you have to have a license to sell alcohol after that, and most younger folk go to clubs later anyway.

After dinner I headed across the courtyard to find the guy I knew was interested in the National Championship, and found a bit of a party going on. I hung around with everyone for a while until they were ready to go out, then the fifteen of us made the twenty minute hike to town. We moved around between a few pubs and ended up at The Quays Pub which had a nifty layout spreading up and down several floors and half-floors, with traditional wood paneling and fireplaces scattered around, and a band playing that was above and catty-corner to the actual bar. Unfortunately the place was teeming with Americans, and even the band was playing Brown Eyed Girl and Sweet Home Alabama (ugh, Alabama... Hook 'em!). Most of the group got sleepy and went home, but we swung over to Kennedy's to watch the kickoff. Good start, Texas! I saw that we got up by 6... then the bartender started closing down. We more or less just went back after that. I checked the halftime score when I got back, and I wouldn't know who won but dear father gave it away today when I caught a subtle downtown today when he asked if I watched the game. Thanks.

Today was the first really cold day in my opinion. I'm pretty sure there were a couple of times that the fog was actually freezing and blowing about. Either that or the snow here is just really icy. It's been thickly overcast all day (unlike the previous two where the sun had come out in the afternoons) and there's supposed to be horribly weather coming in this weekend. I fulfilled a few more obligations about getting myself settled in, found a quicker route (by ten minutes!) back to the apartment, though it cuts through a field that looks like it could be soggy pretty frequently if it weren't frozen, and mostly have been hanging out in the apartment getting to know two of the other four house-mates (one's not in yet). Bethany also is here for the year, goes to Washington State. She's nice, though a little quite. Siobhan is from Donegal (up north) and quite nice. We've gotten along well so far. The other one gets in this weekend... if the roads aren't closed, which seems a popular prediction round here. The weather's also supposed to get worse for the next ten days before easing off. But everyone reassures me it's never this cold here, so I by the time the regular weather rolls around I'll think it's pretty balmy!

Sorry for the abrupt end, but time for some sleep I believe.